The Evolution of Football Shirts: From Practicality to Fashion
Brazil 1970. Liverpool 1984. Netherlands 1988. Arsenal 1991.
The debate over the greatest football shirt of all time is not a new one.
For over a century, most football kits were designed with practicality in mind rather than flair. Professional clubs typically opted for simple designs, often limited to a single color—two if they were feeling adventurous, and three for the more daring. Stripes, hoops, and halved designs represented the extent of creativity.
However, in modern times, football shirts have transformed into fashion statements, serving not only as identifiers for players on the pitch but also as coveted items for fans.
How did we arrive at this point? What pivotal moments contributed to the reverence for football jerseys today? And what lies ahead for the retro shirt market?
How a Chance Encounter Changed the Game
In the past, clubs would purchase a single set of shirts each season, using them for both home and away matches. David Moor, author and editor of the Historical Kits website, points out that this changed following a chance meeting between Leeds United manager Don Revie and Bert Patrick, the founder of the Admiral sportswear company.
“Until that point, Leeds only wore white shirts,” Moor explains. “Fans could easily buy a plain white shirt with the club logo from any sports shop, with no distinguishing features.” Patrick's innovative idea was to redesign and copyright the kit to prevent imitation, allowing Leeds to profit from its unique design while paying the club for its use.
The result was the now-iconic yellow shirt, worn by Leeds for all away games that season. Previously, teams would only wear alternate shirts in case of a kit clash. This idea was a success, prompting other clubs to follow suit.
While Admiral led the charge, brands like Umbro quickly joined the movement. “Soon, football kits became the must-have gifts for children during Christmas and birthdays,” Moor noted. “Over the years, more clubs, especially those participating in major Wembley matches, emerged from the tunnel wearing specially designed kits, revolutionizing the perception of football shirts.”
The advent of color television also played a significant role in this transformation, as more households acquired TV sets, allowing fans to appreciate the vibrant new designs and color schemes.
Italia '90: Gazza's Tears and the Restoration of National Pride
“To make a kit iconic, success on the field is paramount,” says podcast host and football historian Peter Kenny Jones. England's heartbreaking defeat to West Germany in the semi-finals of the 1990 World Cup in Italy showcased the skill and determination fans had longed for.
“Despite not winning, the team returned home to a parade, with Paul Gascoigne becoming a national hero amid iconic moments like his tears and Gary Lineker's emotional plea to the bench,” Jones added. The sales of England shirts surged during and after the tournament, and the jersey remains a fan favorite today.
However, it wasn't just the England shirt that captured attention. Football fans Doug Bierton and Matthew Dale, who met at university, turned the retro football shirt market into a nearly £40 million business. The shirt that sparked their venture? The West Germany home shirt from that World Cup. “I found it for £20 in a charity shop in Manchester's student area. I couldn't believe my luck,” Bierton recalls.
Italia '90 was the first major tournament Bierton watched, and the challenge of locating this specific shirt led him to believe that other fans faced similar struggles. Thus, the idea for Classic Football Shirts was born, starting from a spare bedroom and funded by student loans.
“I aimed to collect every kit from Italia '90, but only half were available for purchase. It required extensive searching, contacting former players, and exploring various avenues to find them. I’m close to completing the set but still need four: Cameroon 1990 away, UAE home, Uruguay home, and South Korea home,” he shared. Bierton's personal collection boasts around 6,700 match-worn shirts, while his company's warehouse holds a million football shirts.
The Premier League's Impact
The introduction of the Premier League in 1992 brought significant changes to football, particularly in financial investments. As player transfer fees and salaries soared, so did the sales of replica shirts. A seemingly minor change for the 1993-94 season had a profound impact: the league mandated that all players have their names printed on their shirts, along with squad numbers. This allowed fans to wear their team's shirt while also supporting their favorite player.
A Shift in the Market
Fast forward to 2018, and the Nigeria shirt for the World Cup in Russia marked a pivotal moment when football shirts became fashion statements. As demand surged, manufacturers struggled to keep up.
“Everyone wanted this shirt,” Jones noted. “It was sold out everywhere.” This led to social media accounts claiming to have access to these shirts, often without guarantees of authenticity.
As modern kits are primarily made of polyester, replicating designs became easier, resulting in a rise in counterfeit products. To protect customers and the integrity of the retro shirt market, reputable sellers now routinely destroy counterfeit items.
The Rise in Demand for Women's Replica Shirts
Once restricted to men's replica shirts, women now have access to shirts designed specifically for them. The growth of women's football has further fueled demand for women's replica shirts, reflecting a broader shift in the market.